<d1b2>
<thomasflummer> These connectors are the same family as the ones used for add-ons to electronic badges, and as I remember, the PCB does not sit flat on the outer housing, there is a little space...
<d1b2>
<rwhitby> Is that just a bom change with compatible footprint?
<d1b2>
<thomasflummer> Yeah, they should be 2.54mm spaced, and the shrouds on the glasgow should have space for the extra plastic in each end
<d1b2>
<thomasflummer> if you switch to 2mm PCB, the pins for jumbers will also not stick out as much on the bottom, but 2mm PCB is thick and cost more...
<d1b2>
<thomasflummer> and the USB-C connectors will likely not reach all the way through (the mechanical pins)
<d1b2>
<thomasflummer> There might actually be a clash with the pins closest to the two connectors... since these stick out in both ends...
<d1b2>
<thomasflummer> there is also a notch that will cover the numbers 3 and 4... maybe you should just use the regular non-keyed headers... they are also MUCH easier to source...
<d1b2>
<thomasflummer> and the key isn't that important here (won't really add a lot of protection), since it's somewhat unlikely to attach the add-on, hanging out the side 😉
<d1b2>
<rwhitby> oh, the numbers on the back aren't that important
<d1b2>
<rwhitby> agreed that the key doesn't really help anything 🙂
<d1b2>
<rwhitby> (for a two port board)
<d1b2>
<rwhitby> hence rounded at bottom and square at top for this board
<d1b2>
<thomasflummer> the keyed ones usually sit a bit better in the shroud, but with a total of 40 pins, it won't fall of by itself...
<d1b2>
<rwhitby> @electronic_eel: I ripped out and layed out the central area of the board again, so I got even more PCB practice 🙂
<d1b2>
<rwhitby> Looking for any issues I may have introduced around the connectors with the new layout.
<d1b2>
<rwhitby> Is it OK to have one signal wire in the middle of the internal power plane like this? It doesn't block any power region filling (I still need to do that).