azonenberg changed the topic of #homecmos to: Homebrew CMOS and MEMS foundry design | Wiki: http://homecmos.drawersteak.com/wiki/Main_Page | Repository: http://code.google.com/p/homecmos/ | Logs: http://en.qi-hardware.com/homecmos-logs/
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<nmz787> well I would say that starting with an OEM ECU and at least scoping out the injectors and timing would be good... but not having it seems like getting started shouldn't *kill* the engine... I mean, you aren't debugging fuel timings and trying the new settings immediately on high-load on a dyno or something. you could do that I guess... but my guess would be using some gas analyzers that are self-heating
<nmz787> (so they are sensitive without the exhaust being hot for too long) should get someone determined pretty far.
<nmz787> I'd guess if you didn't know where to start, you could at least figure out a rough place for timing to start, and then just start lean and keep injecting in a binary search tree pattern to find a place where it'll start up, then tune by ear and by gas analyzer from there. Get a piezo sensor with a microphone conditioner and plug that into your laptop and audacity or something, watch the FFT of that for
<nmz787> ping detection
<nmz787> and the throttle body is good for runaway prevention... which is something that is more serious if you are using an automatic transmission (because with a manual and runaway, you can at least try putting it in 5th gear and locking up the brakes)
<nmz787> or idk, chance it with jamming into reverse (I bet there's a youtuber who's tried this for patreon donations)
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<sync> nmz787: you need to remap your ecu, otherwise it will always be rich
<sync> also, diesel engines don't really ping
<sync> you need to look at the cylinder pressure with a highly dynamic transducer
<sync> the issue is your injection window is incredibly small
<sync> and you need to reliably place the fuel inside the bowl
<sync> if the diesel hits the rim of the bowl your piston melts almost instantly
<sync> and yes, throttle bodies can be used a runaway protection, however they are not in most cases
<sync> they are used to optimize emissions at part load and to make turning a diesel off quieter
<sync> no other use
<sync> nmz787: 03 jetta, so BEW engine code?
<sync> that one is very easy to flash
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<nmz787> sync: nah ALH
<nmz787> I believe it's just earlier than BEW
<nmz787> I will definitely say that all my above commentary was just sort of what I thought about doing in the past... but I only really ever got as far as converting a carbed engine to throttle body fuel injection, and that was just an intake swap with all the associated wires and electronics
<nmz787> I basically just took the entire wiring harness of the FI vehicle and went through the fuse block and schematics, cutting out wires that weren't engine related
<nmz787> then I pretty much found a place in the engine bay to jam the fuse panel, so I had the main truck fuses under my steering area, and the engine all under the hood
<sync> ah yeah ALH was also common in germany
<sync> it's not too bad
<sync> but you really want to recalibrate the fueling maps
<nmz787> had to add an electric fuel pump too, low pressure, but I think I specced a too-powerful motor and it always whined... I thought of making a power controller for the motor and trying to just reduce the pump rate to quiet it down... but the interior sucked so it eventually got taken away
<nmz787> to a new life for some offroad derby
<nmz787> my ALH smokes a bit on startup now, and if I pound the throttle during heavy accel (moreso when cold)... but it always kinda stink
<nmz787> I wish it didn't smell as much like, idk, cooking crayons
<nmz787> the big ford diesels don't seem to smell at all similar
<sync> get a gas engine then
<nmz787> and folks report the new 2.8L GM mini-duramax doesn't smell at all
<nmz787> yeah I ended up doing that 6 months ago
<sync> yes, modern emissions systems work very well
<sync> but lower the thermal efficiency by a lot
<nmz787> mmm
<sync> but who cares about the smell
<nmz787> eh, it's gross
<sync> no, it is lovely
<nmz787> and I am a person who is OK with the smell of raw gasoline...
<nmz787> idk, maybe I need to do some maint on the engine?
<nmz787> 240k miles I think
<sync> it is probably fine
<nmz787> I've only changed the injectors, maybe 10-15k miles ago, got slightly larger nozzles, but like, barely larger
<nmz787> but it smelled before too
<sync> maybe change the glowplugs
<nmz787> eh, it's pretty warm here though
<sync> did you flow the nozzles after you changed them
<sync> doesn't matter
<sync> it will glow all the time
<nmz787> nah I got a hot swap
<nmz787> sent them my cores
<nmz787> so they were already tested an balanced
<sync> it cannot maintain proper combustion temperatures even through prolonged idling
<sync> just because it starts doesn't mean that it runs properly
<sync> I just retimed my tdi, don't really mind the smell at all
<sync> burnt atf is worse
<sync> I also need to remove the dpf soon, too much backpressure
<nmz787> hmm
<nmz787> I assumed the computer controlled all the params
<sync> and it doesn't serve any purpose but a legal one
<sync> sure, but changing what the computer does is easy
<Noxz> I like the word for removing a component (like DPF) that people use.. "delete"
<Noxz> I kinda wished that the engine I purchased came with the DPF and such, simply because I am going for the sustainability route, and even if attempting to use bio, it doesnt mean what is urnt is good for the sourroundings
<Noxz> just got back from grocery store after hike, gunna chill with the pup for a moment..
<Noxz> k, he licked me plenty :P
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